Milk Toffee

Sanjana Hattotuwa (Dunedin/Sri Lanka) used to watch his Archchi (grandma) bake this fudgy sweet in the early '80s: "I remember never leaving the vicinity of the oven because the smell of hot toffee was so mouth-watering."


Sanjana HattotuwaRecipe creator
  • prepare
  • cook
  • 20 servings
A plate of square slices of brown toffee.
Caption:Sanjana Hattotuwa from Dunedin shares her recipe for Sri Lankan Milk Toffee in Familiar Foods.Photo credit:Photograph by Lara Macgregor / Good Bitches Trust

Condensed milk was a luxury back in the day — expensive, and exotic.

Given how infrequently it was purchased — and for a single breadwinner, lower-middle class family, how expensive it was — the rarity of the Milkmaid tin’s appearance presented a dilemma.

I was torn between consuming it or permitting its intended use in the creation of a much-loved sweetmeat. I chose both obviously, but this perfectly reasonable logic was rejected by Archchi, albeit lovingly.

Mixed with very generous portions of cashews, and sometimes even raisins, I remember never leaving the vicinity of the oven, because the smell of hot toffee was so mouth-watering.

The process of cutting it up into small squares (Archchi was a perfectionist) invariably resulted in smaller, non-geometric pieces that were immediately consumed or stored in a jar — zealously guarded from a much elder sister who was assessed as a key threat to this prized stash.

For me, this recipe is personal, and precious like a Proustian madeleine — triggering evocative memories of family, country, childhood, and memories of Archchi, who I adored.

Ingredients

  • 1 can (395g) sweetened condensed milk
  • 250g white granulated sugar
  • 120ml water
  • 28g unsalted butter
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1⁄2 tsp rose water (optional)
  • 1 tsp cardamom seeds, toasted and crushed (or 1⁄4 tsp ground cardamom)
  • 100g roasted cashew nuts, chopped (I usually go with more, around 150-200g, because I like cashews)

Instructions

  1. Lightly grease a 22cm square baking pan with butter or line with parchmentpaper. Set aside.
  2. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, combine the sweetened condensed milk,sugar and water. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thesugar dissolves.
  3. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, for 20-25 minutes until the mixturethickens and turns a deep golden brown colour. It should leave a thin film onthe sides of the pan.
  4. Tips:
  5. Use a heavy-bottomed pan and stir constantly to prevent burning.
  6. Cook until the mixture reaches 116C on a candy thermometer for best results.
  7. For a smoother texture, use a blender to grind the cardamom seeds into a powder before adding.
  8. Store milk toffee in an airtight container at room temperature for up to two weeks.

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