When everyone is closing, what makes a restaurant survive?

It’s unlikely to appear in a fancy food magazine or attract scores of Instagram influencers. But Tony’s Wellesley St in Auckland, which opened in 1963, is a stayer in a hospitality landscape where businesses fall like dominoes.

Tony’s is currently managed by Kelson Henderson, son of Kenn Henderson who took over the restaurant in 1978. Tony’s is the byword of old-school eateries, the place where you can still get a prawn cocktail, seafood chowder, a decent carpet bag steak or a T-bone, and a warm welcome.

Tony’s faltered during the Covid pandemic and sent out a plea for support. Kelson Henderson says the response was huge and humbling, and he is optimistic about the future.

That optimism is admirable, considering that Restaurant Association chief executive Marisa Bidois says it is the hardest period she’s seen in hospitality during her 12 years in the role.

She points to the association’s data in the first quarter of this year which shows that while some areas of the sector are stabilising, the industry continues to operate under sustained pressure. Many long-standing issues—including high fixed costs, labour shortages, and inconsistent demand—remain unresolved.

She says that while there are positive signs and pockets, we’re not out of the woods yet. “Every time there is a closure it is felt deeply by the community, it is so much more than an empty store-front, it’s more than meals. Restaurants create the space for celebration and connections.”

And yet in the midst of such fragility, there are establishments like Tony’s, which has stayed open while nearby favourites like Candela, The Grove, SPQR and Peter Gordon’s Homeland have had to shut. Most recently it was inner-city yum cha favourite Dragonboat Restaurant that had to fold in Auckland.

In Wellington, Kate Hutchison is manager of the city’s much-loved Capitol Restaurant, which she and chef-husband Tom opened in 2002. She says they feel really lucky that while things aren’t financially vibrant, they’ve been in business long enough to understand financial cycles. She sees a slow recovery ahead and there is still uncertainty.

“This is still Covid fall-out, its impact on the economy and behaviour, and Wellingtonians are continuing to be cautious with their money. We feel so well supported by our regulars, well enough supported to be safe.”

She praises Tom’s great work on the pans: “There is beautiful balance and freshness to his food, he’s not following the flight of fashion, he does what is authentic to us and our hearts are firmly rooted in Italy. He’s a nerdy perfectionist who puts out beautiful food. I can stand behind everything with pride.”

Hutchison says her own work continues to be a pleasure. “I love people and feel lucky to be able to create a community space, there is a lot of joy in our space, people come for all kinds of celebrations, it’s a nurturing role and I hug a lot of people. You have to know people’s names. I have a sense of gratitude that people keep coming.”

“I’m the manager but my main passion is carrying plates, and loving what I do, my enjoyment is giving people a good experience.”

In Hamilton, chef Mat McLean marked the 20th anniversary of his Palate Restaurant in February. At a dinner to celebrate, he was proud to welcome people who’d been at his opening day event, who’d supported him from day dot. He values his customers and says he wants to run the sort of place where he’d like to dine himself.

Palate’s shifted locations three times in two decades in the city’s CBD; McLean says that being prepared to refresh and change has been a key to his longevity. He hasn’t got stuck doing the same thing forever. Nowadays he’s cooking on a South American-style asado grill, a big barbecue, and he loves it.

He says the economic downturn is still biting and labour costs are a constant juggle. “You need to have good business sense as well; you have to pay the bills and the wages.” Consistent with keeping his meals affordable, he’s currently offering set-priced menu options alongside a la carte, two courses for $60, three at $75 and five at $95.

McLean counts himself fortunate to have an informal network of chefs nationwide who he talks through issues with. “If you need a pick-me-up, it’s only a phone call away.” He values his suppliers, too. “I stay loyal to them, keep things in the circle, I’ve built a relationship with my suppliers, and they get a feel for what I want. You need to love your region, and your local produce.”

Back at Tony’s, Kelson Henderson says his father instilled in him the importance of looking after people, both the staff and the customers. Henderson says this advice is significant to Tony’s success: the restaurant has a tight-knit team which includes three families who have been working alongside each other for decades, serving several generations of loyal customers.

“We don’t pretend to have the most exotic or diverse menu but we do the classics well and our front-of-house team is friendly and they’re great at looking after people.

“We’re all about the hospitality of hospitality.”